Exploring west Crete

Chania old town. The Venetian harbour, the lighthouse at the end of the breakwater and the lanes behind the waterfront. Park outside the old town and walk in; the centre is mostly pedestrian.

Balos. A shallow lagoon on the Gramvousa peninsula in the far north-west. You can reach it by boat from Kissamos port, or drive the last stretch on a rough dirt road and walk down. Take water, a hat and good shoes.

Elafonisi. Known for its pale pink sand and shallow water, in the south-west corner of the island. It is a protected area, so please do not take any sand or shells. From here it is a long drive, so plan a full day.

Both beaches get very busy in July and August. Arriving early in the morning makes a real difference.